Monday, January 7, 2019

Turtles and dried grapes and sheep

West! Head west! Go west young man! I have heard this same call before. The Pacific and the redwoods, the waterfalls and National Parks have all called before. This time when the phone rang, it was the mountains that called and I answered. And they have delivered on their promises. 

The Wind River Range is absolutely magnificent! The beauty and majesty of the giant monoliths in the range will take your breath away. I mean, Seriously. I started out 4 days ago at sea level and 10,000 feet will leave you breathless. 

Leaving out of NY I had arranged  to meet my friend Flower in the Winds but didn't give too much thought to the adventure we had planned except for that I was excited to go backpacking. When we arrived at the Big Sandy parking area we were already at around 10,000 feet. My body was not acclimated and it told me to slow down and take it easy. At night, resting in my hammock, my heart rate was over 110. Needless to say, it freaked me out a bit. 

On day 2 we had ambitious plans to hike up and over Jackass pass and then down to Lonesome Lake, then back up the other side after passing the Cirque of the Towers, then around to some other lake via a rock scramble trail of some sort. It was supposed to be over 12 miles and when we reached the pass we hadn't even hiked 4 teeny tiny miles, had stopped for lunch a mile back, had zero energy and zero interest in hiking any further. As we approached the lake, we noticed a couple of camping areas off to the right and after a brief conversation, we talked each other into staying right there and then backtracking to the parking area for day 3.  


We had an incredible view of the rocky spires and the lake below from our perch up on the mountain side. We set up camp and carried a few snacks through the rolling meadow to the lake where we sunned ourselves like reptiles on the rocky shore. Flower has an affinity for raisins and her only regret was not bringing a larger box of them on our hike. The sun was warm but the mountain air was cool, so when the sun ducked behind a cloud or two, the temperature would swing like a pendulum, but we had the right gear and our faces shined as brightly as the sun. 


On day 3, we hiked back up over Jackass pass and down the alternate trail along the western side of Arrowhead lake then back down to Big Sandy Lake. There was another fork in the trail and we took the one on the right (it was less traveled) to get out and around Diamond and V Lakes. Then we took a connecting trail that just so happened to be the CDT, so we thru hiked it and made our way back to the parking lot. The burgers and beers we dreamed of on the hike out were just a few miles away and after a couple minute drive, we found ourselves at the Big Sandy Lodge. I commented that they should change the name to The Little Lodge at Big Sandy, but they were open for business even though it didn't look like they would be. The lemonade was also very good.    

Anyway, the drive across the country can be monotonous and at times you find yourself staring blankly out at the vast open spaces that make up states like Illinois, Missouri, Iowa, and Nebraska. You look for the subtle changes in the landscape as you slowly increase your altitude across the vast western plains. 

The excitement of time travel and being lost in thought largely occupied my time as the uneventful drive unfolded before me. Continuing on into the setting sun for days on end my mind touched on topics of love and relationships, mountains and hiking, friendships and success, failure and shortcomings, honesty and integrity and there is always a feeling of being lost. No, seriously, where am I? Did I cross the border? Am I in a new time zone? Am I going too fast? What's the speed limit on this road anyway? Is it 70 or 80? Did the speed limit drop down to 65 and I missed it? Maybe my mind caught the details without my becoming fully aware? Sure hope so. Wait, there's a sign. Should I get gas soon? It turns out we are still in Nebraska, the lottery tickets say so. Just keep driving... driving... more driving... Is it time to sleep yet? 

Eventually we encounter 85 octane gasoline. Hmmm. Will my Subaru engine like this stuff? Why do they sell this stuff at higher altitudes? Time to consult the internet. Maybe the almighty google knows? To try it or not to try it, that is the question. Save money and buy "regular" gas. Regular gas on the east coast is 87.  The 1.9L engine didn't have a problem last time. Ok fine, I'll try it... Your mind wanders and wonders and then it becomes a game of "How is the van running now?" Was that noise there before? Is the gas mileage still the same? Is the van running worse? Should we be able to climb this hill in 5th? How steep is this incline anyway? What's going on? Maybe we should try to add some 87 to the tank? Let's wait it out and see if the gas mileage is suffering. Wait, what time is it? Where am I now? 

Sleeping in rest areas, Walmart parking lots and truck stops takes some practice and getting used to. Often I drown out the background noises with a sound machine app on my phone and play the ocean waves to soothe my spirit. Before I retire I often walk around some to stretch my legs, maybe do a little shopping, pick up a snack from a vending machine, or just do laps up and down the sidewalk. I often just brush my teeth without water and just use the paste while using an old drink bottle as a spittoon. I prefer to have a 24 hour bathroom available, as you never know if there's going to be a late night emergency. I'd be lying if I told you "I have never used my emergency bucket." I line it with garbage bags in the event of an upset stomach, tie it off in a knot and toss it in the trash. Boy Scout Motto: Be Prepared. 

After a while the highways melt together and the slowly changing scenery starts to offer glimpses of other states I've been in. My mind wanders back to earlier adventures and I m reminded of how nice it is to have a copilot/navigator. I appreciate how easily a passenger can roll their window up or down when the rains come and go. The disadvantage causes me to pull off the road, maybe just over on the shoulder, or onto an off ramp. Maybe I grab a drink from the cooler or a snack from the cabinets or fridge. Sometimes I'll use the time to pee on the side of the road too. Why waste a stop? 

Eventually the setting suns give way to night. Now, I am not a fan of night driving. It used to be preferred but these days the lights hurt my eyes in my old age. Usually the traffic is lighter at night and out west there is hardly any traffic to contend with most of the time. So, I will put my night vision glasses on and do my best to continue for a while each night. 
Finally we reach the great state of Wyoming, the speed limit is 75 mph, but there is no way I m going to make it to the range today. Tomorrow. Tomorrow is another day. I search for a place to rest my tired eyes and just when I don't think I can drive another minute, there's a truck stop with a parking lot and a convenience store. 

Snuggled up in the back of the van, it's cooler than I had anticipated. I pulled out the old sleeping bag and even grabbed my winter hat just in case I would need it later in the night. Just as I start to drift off to sleep, there's a rumbling outside. Did someone just pull up? I peer through the windows and see nothing. But, it's loud. Too loud. What's going on? Frustrated, I unzip the bag, open the door and step outside to see if some juggernaut decided to park behind me and run his engine all night. To my surprise the nearest truck was at least 30 yards away and behind a fence. Mind blown, I conclude that the side of my van was acting like a speaker and we were just in the wrong place at the wrong time. I didn't have the energy to drive to a different location so I reached into the cabinet and found my ear plugs. I even started the sound machine for good measure, and drifted off to sleep. 

The next day Wilson and I made our way down the interstate until the GPS told us we should hop off of it. Eventually we found ourselves making sure the tank was topped off to venture out into the vast wilderness. The dirt road we drove down to meet Flower on was long. Very long. And made of dirt. There were a few twists and turns, and we passed over a few cattle grates to keep the livestock from wondering into the wrong pasture. What pasture? Its all sage brush and high desert here. Nothing to see but dirt and brush and more dirt and more brush. Oh, look over there, some little badlands like area! That's different. Then, Finally, Mountains!!! YAY!!! 

From our rendezvous point it was still an hour or so till we arrived at the trail head. I spent a good amount of time packing my bag and organizing my gear waiting for Flower to arrive. For a little while I even started to worry that maybe I wasn't in the right place. Phone service had quit for both of us so that wasn't an option. When she did finally arrive, the reason she was late was astonishing. A herd of SHEEP being shepherded by some cowboys and their dogs were blocking the road!!!















1 comment:

  1. You are a lucky man. Your adventures are something most of us on this side of 40 only dream of.

    ReplyDelete